RHS Pruning Group 7: Pruning for Colourful Stems and Large Foliage
RHS Pruning Group 7 covers trees and shrubs that are pruned hard to produce one of two ornamental effects:
Brightly coloured young stems for winter interest
Vigorous shoots carrying unusually large leaves
Many plants in this group become less visually striking as their stems age. Regular hard pruning removes older growth and stimulates vigorous replacement shoots from the base or a permanent low framework.
The basic Group 7 principle is:
Enjoy the stems or foliage, then prune hard during late winter or spring to generate vigorous young growth.
Which Plants Belong to RHS Pruning Group 7?
Group 7 includes plants grown for colourful stems and plants grown for large ornamental foliage.
Plants Grown for Colourful Stems
Typical examples include:
Cornus alba – coloured-stemmed dogwood
Cornus sanguinea – common dogwood and ornamental cultivars
Cornus sericea – red-osier dogwood
Salix – ornamental willows
Rubus – ornamental brambles, including white-stemmed forms
Young dogwood stems can produce vivid shades of red, orange, yellow and green during winter.
Ornamental willows can produce yellow, orange or red stems, while plants such as Rubus cockburnianus are grown for their striking pale or white stems.
The strongest colour is generally found on the youngest growth. As the stems age, their colour becomes duller.
Plants Grown for Large Foliage
Group 7 can also include:
Catalpa – Indian bean tree
Cercis – Judas tree
Cotinus – smoke bush
Eucalyptus
Paulownia tomentosa – foxglove tree
Sambucus – elder
When suitable plants are cut back hard, they can respond by producing vigorous shoots with significantly larger leaves than they would carry on an unpruned specimen.
The trade-off is that flowers, fruit and the plant’s natural tree-like form may be reduced or lost.
Not every species or cultivar within these genera is suitable for hard pruning. Correct identification is essential.
Explore our range of specimen trees and hedging plants before choosing plants for a particular ornamental effect.
Coppicing, Pollarding and Stooling
Several pruning terms are associated with Group 7.
Coppicing
Coppicing involves cutting stems back close to ground level. The plant then produces vigorous replacement shoots from its base.
When applied to smaller ornamental shrubs, this may also be called stooling.
Pollarding
Pollarding involves retaining a permanent trunk or low framework and repeatedly cutting the young growth back to the same points.
Pollarding should ideally be established while a tree is young. Beginning this treatment on a large, mature tree can create major wounds, structural weakness and safety risks.
Large-tree pollarding should be assessed and undertaken by a suitably qualified tree professional.
Selective Renewal
Not every Group 7 shrub needs to be cut completely down.
An alternative is to remove a proportion of the oldest stems each year. This retains a larger, more natural shrub while still encouraging colourful replacement growth.
When Should Group 7 Plants Be Pruned?
Group 7 plants are generally pruned between late winter and midspring.
Traditional pruning takes place during February or March, before leaves begin to develop. However, dogwoods and ornamental willows grown for stem colour are often left until late March or early April so their winter display can be enjoyed for longer.
The precise timing depends on:
The plant species
Local weather conditions
The intended ornamental effect
Whether the plant is coppiced or pollarded
Whether active bird nests are present
Whether new growth has begun
Avoid hard pruning during summer. By this stage, much of the plant’s stored energy is present in the leaves and stems, so removing them can result in weaker regrowth.
Establish the Plant Before Hard Pruning
Newly planted trees and shrubs should usually be allowed to establish for one or two growing seasons before a hard Group 7 pruning regime begins.
This allows the plant to develop:
A healthy root system
Sufficient stored energy
Strong basal growth
A stable relationship with the surrounding soil
Hard pruning a recently planted or weak specimen may place it under unnecessary stress.
Read our guide to looking after newly planted trees and hedging for general establishment advice.
How to Prune for Colourful Stems
For an established dogwood, willow or ornamental bramble:
Remove dead, damaged or diseased stems.
Remove weak and badly positioned growth.
Decide between complete hard pruning and selective renewal.
Make clean cuts using sharp tools.
Retain a low framework where appropriate.
Avoid damaging healthy buds around the base.
Complete Hard Pruning
Where maximum young-stem colour is required, established plants can be cut back hard to a low framework or close to ground level.
This produces a mass of vigorous new stems during spring and summer. Once the leaves fall, these young stems provide the following winter’s display.
Selective Renewal
Where a larger and more natural shrub is preferred, remove approximately one-third of the oldest stems at ground level each year.
This creates a mixture of stem ages while continually introducing some fresh, brightly coloured growth.
Selective renewal can be particularly effective where dogwoods form part of a mixed border or provide screening.
How to Prune Cornus for Winter Stem Colour
Coloured-stem dogwoods are among the most widely used Group 7 plants.
Once established:
Cut the stems back hard during spring for maximum young growth.
Alternatively, remove one-third of the oldest stems each year.
Remove weak and congested shoots.
Retain vigorous, well-positioned replacement stems.
Feed, mulch and water during dry periods after pruning.
Less vigorous cultivars, including Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’, do not necessarily need complete annual cutting. Pruning every second year or using selective renewal may produce a fuller and more natural effect.
How to Prune Ornamental Willows
Vigorous ornamental willows can normally be cut back annually to maintain strong young stem colour.
Cut the previous season’s growth back to the established low framework or stool.
Willows can produce rapid, vigorous replacement growth, so ensure the plant has sufficient space and moisture.
Avoid planting vigorous willows where their mature root system or annual growth could become problematic.
How to Prune Ornamental Rubus
White-stemmed ornamental brambles can be cut down close to ground level during late winter or spring.
Wear suitable protective gloves and clothing because many ornamental Rubus have sharp thorns.
Fresh replacement shoots should then emerge and develop their characteristic pale stems.
How to Prune for Large Leaves
Suitable trees and shrubs can be coppiced or pollarded to produce vigorous stems with oversized foliage.
The precise method depends on the plant:
Coppiced plants are cut close to the base.
Pollarded plants retain a permanent trunk or framework.
New shoots are cut back to the same points in subsequent years.
Weak and overcrowded replacement shoots can be thinned.
The strongest, best-positioned growth is retained.
This treatment changes the natural appearance of the plant. A Catalpa or Paulownia managed for large leaves will not develop the same canopy, flowers or mature form as an unpruned tree.
Pruning Cotinus and Sambucus for Foliage
Cotinus and ornamental Sambucus can be pruned firmly during spring to encourage vigorous shoots carrying large, strongly coloured leaves.
However, regular hard pruning is likely to reduce or eliminate flowers and fruit.
Choose the priority before pruning:
Retain a natural framework for flowers and fruit.
Prune hard for vigorous, oversized foliage.
Pruning Catalpa and Paulownia for Foliage
Catalpa and Paulownia can produce exceptionally large leaves when coppiced or pollarded.
This treatment should begin while the plant is young and should form part of a planned long-term management system.
Do not suddenly cut a mature tree down to a low framework without obtaining appropriate professional advice.
Hard pruning may also prevent the plant from producing its normal flowers and seed pods.
Group 7 Compared With Group 6
RHS Pruning Group 6 plants are pruned during spring to produce new shoots carrying flowers later that year.
Group 7 plants are pruned primarily for ornamental stems or foliage. Flowers are secondary and may be sacrificed completely.
The timing can be similar, but the purpose and required pruning severity are different.
Looking After Group 7 Plants Following Pruning
Hard pruning demands considerable replacement growth.
After pruning:
Apply an appropriate general-purpose feed where required.
Mulch the root area with organic material.
Keep mulch away from direct contact with the stems.
Water thoroughly during prolonged dry periods.
Remove competing weeds.
Thin excessive new shoots where necessary.
Check that young growth is not damaged by late frost.
Young stems may grow rapidly and can be vulnerable to wind damage. Monitor vigorous plants during summer.
Check for Nesting Birds
Dense shrubs can provide nesting habitat.
Before pruning, check carefully for active nests. If a nest is being built or remains in use, postpone the work until it is no longer active.
Common Group 7 Pruning Mistakes
Hard-Pruning a Newly Planted Specimen
Allow the plant one or two years to establish before beginning a severe pruning regime.
Pruning During Autumn
Autumn pruning removes the stems intended to provide winter colour.
Pruning During Summer
Summer pruning removes the plant’s leaves and can result in weaker replacement growth.
Expecting Flowers After Hard Pruning
Plants managed for young stems or oversized foliage may produce few or no flowers.
Starting Pollarding on a Mature Tree
Creating a new pollard framework on a mature tree can produce large wounds and structural problems. Obtain professional advice.
Treating Every Species in the Same Way
Some plants regenerate much more reliably than others. Confirm the species and its tolerance before pruning hard.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should dogwood be cut down every year?
Not necessarily. Vigorous cultivars can be cut back annually for maximum stem colour, while slower-growing plants may be pruned every second year or managed by removing one-third of the oldest stems annually.
When should I prune coloured-stem dogwood?
Late March to mid-April is commonly used, allowing the winter stems to remain visible for as long as possible before new growth develops.
What is the difference between coppicing and pollarding?
Coppicing cuts stems close to ground level. Pollarding retains a trunk or permanent framework and repeatedly removes the young growth above it.
Will coppiced Catalpa still flower?
Regular coppicing prioritises vigorous foliage and will normally prevent the plant from developing its usual mature flowering canopy.
Can I pollard a mature tree myself?
Large or mature trees should be assessed by a qualified professional. Incorrect heavy pruning can create dangerous wounds and structurally weak regrowth.
The Simple Rule for RHS Pruning Group 7
The easiest way to remember Group 7 is:
Enjoy colourful stems through winter, then prune in spring to produce vigorous stems or oversized leaves for the next display.
For related pruning advice, read our guides to RHS Pruning Group 6, RHS Pruning Group 4 and RHS Pruning Group 1.