RHS Pruning Group 2: Early-Flowering Shrubs

RHS Pruning Group 2 covers deciduous shrubs that flower during late winter, spring or early summer on growth produced during the previous year.

Because the flower buds are already carried on the older stems, pruning these plants during autumn, winter or early spring can remove the branches that are about to flower.

The basic Group 2 principle is:

Allow the shrub to flower first, then prune it to encourage new shoots for next year’s display.

Which Plants Belong to RHS Pruning Group 2?

Group 2 includes many familiar spring and early-summer flowering shrubs.

Typical examples include:

  • Chaenomeles – flowering quince

  • Deutzia

  • Forsythia

  • Kerria japonica

  • Philadelphus – mock orange

  • Ribes sanguineum – flowering currant

  • Spring-flowering Spiraea

  • Weigela

These shrubs normally produce fresh stems during spring and summer. The new stems mature through the growing season and carry flowers the following spring or early summer.

This explains why pruning time is so important. If a Forsythia is pruned heavily during winter, many of the stems carrying its spring flower buds will be removed.

Pruning after flowering allows you to enjoy the current display while giving the shrub enough time to produce replacement flowering growth.

Not every species or cultivar within a genus necessarily belongs to the same pruning group. Always confirm the identity and flowering habit of the particular plant before pruning it substantially.

When Should Group 2 Shrubs Be Pruned?

The general rule is to prune immediately after flowering.

For many spring-flowering shrubs, this means pruning during late spring or early summer. Use the end of the plant’s flowering period as your guide rather than relying entirely on a date.

Examples include:

  • Forsythia: prune after its yellow spring flowers fade.

  • Flowering currant: prune after its spring display.

  • Philadelphus: prune after flowering during early or midsummer.

  • Deutzia: prune once its late-spring or early-summer flowers finish.

  • Weigela: prune after the main flowering display.

  • Spring-flowering Spiraea: prune after flowering rather than during winter.

This timing provides the remainder of the growing season for replacement shoots to develop and mature.

Dead, damaged or diseased wood can normally be removed whenever it is identified. However, the main structural pruning should be undertaken after flowering.

How to Prune RHS Group 2 Shrubs

Begin by allowing the shrub to finish flowering. Then inspect its complete shape and framework before making any cuts.

Remove Dead, Damaged and Diseased Growth

Remove branches that are dead, broken, damaged or showing signs of disease.

Cut back to healthy wood or remove the complete branch cleanly at its point of origin.

Clean your tools before moving between plants, particularly where disease may be present.

Remove Weak and Crossing Stems

Remove weak, crossing, rubbing or badly positioned stems that are contributing to congestion.

Where two branches compete for the same space, retain the stronger and better-positioned one.

Shorten Flowered Growth

Flowered shoots can be shortened to a strong young shoot, healthy bud or suitably positioned side branch lower down the plant.

Avoid cutting every branch back to precisely the same height. Selective pruning retains a more natural shape and produces a better-balanced framework.

Remove Some of the Oldest Stems

On established plants, remove some of the oldest stems close to ground level.

As a broad approach, approximately one in four of the oldest stems can be removed during routine pruning where the plant is healthy and vigorous.

This gradual renewal:

  • Prevents the plant becoming dominated by old wood

  • Encourages vigorous replacement stems

  • Reduces congestion

  • Maintains flowering at an accessible height

  • Retains the overall framework of the shrub

Do not automatically remove one quarter of every shrub. Smaller, younger or slower-growing specimens may need considerably less pruning.

Routine Pruning Versus Renovation Pruning

Routine Group 2 pruning involves selectively removing flowered growth and a proportion of the oldest stems while retaining the plant’s established framework.

Renovation pruning is more severe and may be considered where a shrub has become badly overgrown, congested or unproductive.

Not every Group 2 plant responds equally well to hard renovation. Substantial work may be better spread across two or three growing seasons to reduce stress and retain some flowers.

Identify the exact species and check its tolerance before cutting an established shrub back severely.

Pruning Individual Group 2 Shrubs

Forsythia

Remove some of the oldest flowered stems close to ground level after flowering. Shorten other flowered shoots to vigorous young growth.

Avoid repeatedly clipping only the outside because this can produce a dense surface with an increasingly bare and woody centre.

Philadelphus

Once flowering has finished, cut flowered stems back to strong young shoots. Remove some older stems at ground level to encourage replacement growth and maintain the shrub’s fragrant flowering display.

Weigela

Remove several of the oldest flowered stems after blooming and shorten untidy growth to healthy young shoots.

Variegated cultivars can occasionally produce completely green shoots. These should be removed at their point of origin.

Flowering Currant

Prune after the spring flowers fade. Remove old or congested stems where required and shorten flowered shoots to suitable young growth.

Kerria japonica

Remove flowered stems after flowering to encourage fresh green shoots. Any completely green growth appearing on variegated cultivars should be removed promptly.

Tools for Pruning Group 2 Shrubs

Use tools appropriate to the thickness of the branches:

  • Secateurs for younger shoots

  • Loppers for thicker stems

  • A pruning saw for mature woody branches

  • Protective gloves and eye protection

Tools should be clean and sharp. Make clean cuts without crushing the stems or leaving unnecessarily long stubs.

If the shrub is particularly large or access is difficult, consider obtaining professional help.

Looking After Shrubs Following Pruning

After pruning:

  • Remove cut material from around the plant.

  • Water if the soil is dry.

  • Keep the surrounding soil free from weeds.

  • Apply an appropriate general-purpose feed where required.

  • Add organic mulch over moist soil.

  • Keep mulch away from direct contact with the stems.

  • Monitor new growth for pests, disease or drought stress.

Newly planted shrubs should normally be pruned more cautiously while their root systems establish. Our guide to looking after newly planted trees and hedging explains the basic principles of watering, weeding and mulching newly installed plants.

Common Group 2 Pruning Mistakes

Pruning During Winter

Winter pruning removes stems carrying the following spring’s flower buds.

Cutting the Whole Shrub to One Height

Shearing the entire plant can produce an unnatural shape and a dense outer layer of growth while leaving old, unproductive stems inside.

Removing All the Old Wood at Once

Gradual renewal usually places less stress on the plant and retains more of its established framework.

Pruning Newly Planted Shrubs Too Hard

Recently planted shrubs should normally be allowed to establish before substantial annual renewal pruning begins.

Assuming Every Spring-Flowering Shrub Is Group 2

Some spring-flowering plants belong to different pruning groups and require lighter or considerably harder treatment.

How Group 2 Differs From Other Pruning Groups

RHS Pruning Group 1 plants generally need minimal pruning and are allowed to retain their natural frameworks.

Group 2 shrubs are pruned selectively after flowering, with some older stems removed gradually to encourage renewal.

RHS Pruning Group 5 plants tolerate much harder pruning after flowering.

Early-flowering evergreen shrubs may belong to RHS Pruning Group 8, where only light or selective pruning is generally required.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I prune Forsythia during winter?

You can remove dead or damaged growth, but the principal pruning should wait until flowering has finished. Winter pruning will remove many of the stems carrying spring flower buds.

Should Group 2 shrubs be pruned every year?

Established shrubs usually benefit from regular inspection and selective pruning, but the amount required will depend on their age, vigour, condition and available space.

Can an overgrown Group 2 shrub be cut to the ground?

Some species can tolerate severe renovation, but others respond poorly. Identify the plant and check its individual requirements before undertaking hard pruning.

Why has my shrub stopped flowering?

Possible causes include pruning at the wrong time, removing too much flowering wood, insufficient light, poor growing conditions or excessive nitrogen-rich fertiliser.

Can I prune immediately after planting?

Remove damaged or badly positioned growth, but avoid unnecessary hard pruning until the plant has begun to establish.

The Simple Rule for RHS Pruning Group 2

The easiest way to remember Group 2 is:

If it flowers on last year’s growth, let it flower first and prune it afterwards.

Explore more advice from Landscaping Emporium or browse our professionally supplied and planted hedging plants and specimen trees.