RHS Pruning Group 8: Early-Flowering Evergreen Shrubs
RHS Pruning Group 8 covers evergreen shrubs that flower during winter, spring or early summer and generally require relatively little routine pruning.
These plants often develop an attractive natural framework without regular cutting. Excessive pruning can spoil their shape, remove developing flower buds and reduce their ornamental value.
The basic Group 8 principle is:
Enjoy the flowers first, then prune lightly afterwards where necessary.
Which Plants Belong to RHS Pruning Group 8?
Typical Group 8 plants include:
Berberis – evergreen barberries
Buxus sempervirens – box
Camellia
Ceanothus – evergreen forms
Choisya – Mexican orange blossom
Daphne
Hypericum – evergreen forms
Mahonia
Osmanthus
Pieris
Pittosporum
Prunus laurocerasus – cherry laurel
Prunus lusitanica – Portuguese laurel
Rhododendron, including evergreen azaleas
Skimmia
Viburnum tinus
Some deciduous Viburnums can also be treated according to Group 8 principles.
Not every species within these genera will necessarily require identical pruning. Always identify the complete plant before undertaking substantial work.
Do Group 8 Shrubs Need Annual Pruning?
Usually not.
If the plant is healthy, well shaped and growing comfortably within its available space, leaving it alone may be the best approach.
Routine pruning is generally limited to removing:
Dead branches
Damaged or diseased growth
Crossing and rubbing stems
Weak shoots
Badly positioned branches
Unwanted suckers
Excessively long or untidy growth
Faded flowers where deadheading is beneficial
Inspect the plant annually, but only prune where there is a clear reason to do so.
When Should Group 8 Shrubs Be Pruned?
The main pruning should generally be completed immediately after flowering.
For many Group 8 plants, this means spring or early summer. The exact timing depends on the species, cultivar, local climate and when its flowering display finishes.
Pruning after flowering means:
The current season’s flowers can be enjoyed.
Developing flower buds are not removed beforehand.
The plant has the remainder of the growing season to recover.
Replacement shoots have time to mature before winter.
Fresh cuts are less exposed to severe weather.
Avoid substantial pruning during late summer or autumn. New growth stimulated at this stage may not mature before winter and can be vulnerable to frost.
Dead, damaged or diseased growth can normally be removed when it is discovered.
How to Prune Group 8 Shrubs
Begin by inspecting the entire shrub.
Remove Unhealthy Growth
Remove dead, broken, damaged or diseased branches first.
Cut back to healthy wood or remove the complete branch at its point of origin.
Clean tools before moving between plants, particularly where disease may be present.
Remove Crossing and Congested Growth
Where branches cross or rub together, retain the stronger and better-positioned branch.
Thin congested areas selectively rather than cutting back the complete outer surface of the plant.
Shorten Individual Branches
If a shrub needs reducing, trace individual branches into the plant and shorten them to a healthy side shoot or suitable growing point.
This produces a more natural result than cutting every branch to the same height.
Retain the Natural Framework
Group 8 shrubs are normally grown for their natural habit, evergreen foliage and flowers.
Avoid forcing the plant into an artificial shape unless it is intentionally being maintained as a formal hedge or topiary specimen.
How to Prune Camellias
Camellias generally require little routine pruning.
Once flowering has finished:
Remove dead or damaged branches.
Remove crossing and congested growth.
Shorten individual branches where size control is needed.
Cut back to a healthy side shoot or bud.
Retain the plant’s naturally attractive framework.
An established Camellia can tolerate firmer pruning, but substantial renovation may reduce flowering while the plant recovers.
Where a large specimen needs considerable reduction, spreading the work across two or three seasons may produce a more balanced result.
How to Prune Choisya
Choisya often requires little pruning beyond removing frost-damaged or untidy growth.
After flowering:
Remove dead and damaged stems.
Cut back excessively long shoots.
Thin congested areas.
Shorten flowered growth to healthy leafy shoots.
Retain a compact but natural framework.
Established Choisya can normally recover from firmer pruning where it has outgrown its position, although flowering may be temporarily reduced.
How to Prune Mahonia
Mahonia generally develops an architectural framework without regular pruning.
After flowering:
Remove damaged or badly positioned stems.
Cut unwanted stems at their point of origin.
Shorten tall or awkward branches to healthy side growth.
Remove some older stems where the centre has become congested.
Avoid shearing the complete plant because this destroys its distinctive natural form.
Low-growing ground-cover Mahonias may tolerate firmer spring trimming where rejuvenation is required.
How to Prune Pieris
Pieris generally requires little pruning.
After flowering:
Remove dead or frost-damaged shoots.
Remove badly positioned branches.
Lightly shorten untidy growth.
Deadhead where practical.
Retain healthy young shoots and the natural framework.
Pieris forms flower buds in advance of the following display. Avoid late pruning that removes developing buds.
How to Prune Rhododendrons and Evergreen Azaleas
Most Rhododendrons and evergreen azaleas need very little pruning.
After flowering:
Remove spent flower heads carefully where practical.
Avoid damaging the developing buds immediately below.
Remove dead, damaged or crossing branches.
Shorten isolated unwanted shoots.
Retain the natural rounded framework.
Large established Rhododendrons may tolerate renovation pruning, but recovery can take time and flowering may be reduced for several seasons.
How to Prune Laurel
Cherry laurel and Portuguese laurel can be grown as individual shrubs or maintained as hedges.
For individual specimens:
Remove damaged branches after flowering.
Shorten overlong stems to suitable side branches.
Thin congested growth selectively.
Retain a balanced framework.
Where laurels are clipped as hedges, secateurs can produce a cleaner appearance than hedge trimmers because powered blades often cut through the large leaves and leave brown edges.
Browse our range of hedging plants, including professionally supplied and planted evergreen hedging.
How to Prune Viburnum tinus
Viburnum tinus usually needs only limited pruning.
After flowering:
Remove dead or damaged growth.
Shorten overlong shoots.
Remove crossing branches.
Thin congested sections.
Retain healthy growth where berries are wanted.
Removing faded flowers will also remove the possibility of berries developing, so decide which feature is more important before deadheading.
Renovating an Overgrown Group 8 Shrub
Some Group 8 evergreens tolerate hard renovation better than others.
Choisya, box, laurel, holly, Camellia, Pieris, Viburnum tinus and some Mahonias may regenerate after substantial reduction. Other evergreens can respond poorly when cut deeply into old wood.
Where the response is uncertain, renovate gradually:
Remove dead and damaged material.
Remove a proportion of the oldest or worst-positioned stems.
Shorten selected branches to healthy growth.
Allow the plant to recover.
Continue the reduction during subsequent seasons.
A plant that has permanently outgrown its position may be better replaced with a more appropriately sized species.
Group 8 Compared With Group 9
Group 8 contains early-flowering evergreen shrubs that are generally pruned after flowering.
RHS Pruning Group 9 includes later-flowering evergreens such as Escallonia, Hebe, Fatsia, Eucryphia and rosemary.
Group 9 plants normally receive light pruning during mid- to late spring.
Group 8 Compared With Group 10
RHS Pruning Group 10 contains smaller evergreen shrubs such as lavender, heather, santolina and thyme.
These plants benefit from more regular trimming to prevent them becoming excessively woody or straggly.
Group 8 shrubs normally require much less frequent intervention.
Looking After Evergreen Shrubs Following Pruning
After pruning:
Remove cut material from around the plant.
Apply a suitable general-purpose feed where required.
Mulch over moist, weed-free soil.
Keep mulch away from direct contact with stems.
Water during prolonged dry weather.
Monitor replacement growth for frost damage.
Avoid excessive feeding that produces weak, soft shoots.
Recently planted shrubs should be allowed to establish before unnecessary pruning. Read our guide to looking after newly planted trees and hedging for general establishment advice.
Check for Nesting Birds
Evergreen shrubs and hedges provide important nesting habitat.
Inspect the plant carefully before pruning. If a nest is being built or remains in use, postpone the work until it is no longer active.
Common Group 8 Pruning Mistakes
Pruning Before Flowering
This can remove the growth carrying the forthcoming flower buds.
Pruning Simply Because It Is Spring
A healthy, well-shaped Group 8 shrub may not require pruning.
Cutting Every Branch to the Same Height
This creates an unnatural outline and a dense outer layer of growth.
Pruning Too Late
Late-summer or autumn pruning can produce tender shoots that are vulnerable during winter.
Assuming Every Evergreen Can Be Hard-Pruned
The ability to regenerate from old wood varies significantly between plants.
Deadheading When Berries Are Wanted
Removing faded flowers prevents fruit and berries from developing.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I prune a Camellia?
Prune immediately after flowering, allowing time for replacement growth and future flower buds to develop.
Can Choisya be cut back hard?
Established Choisya can normally tolerate firm spring pruning, but flowering may be reduced while it recovers.
Should Rhododendrons be pruned annually?
No. Most Rhododendrons require little pruning beyond deadheading and removing dead, damaged or badly positioned growth.
When should laurel hedges be trimmed?
Timing depends on the desired flowering and berry display, the hedge’s condition and wildlife considerations. Always check for active bird nests before trimming.
Can I prune an evergreen shrub during winter?
Dead or dangerous branches may need attention, but the main pruning of Group 8 shrubs is generally better delayed until after flowering.
The Simple Rule for RHS Pruning Group 8
The easiest way to remember Group 8 is:
Evergreen and early flowering—enjoy the flowers first, then prune lightly afterwards.
For related guidance, read our pages covering RHS Pruning Group 9, RHS Pruning Group 10 and RHS Pruning Group 1.