RHS Pruning Group 9: Late-Flowering Evergreen Shrubs

RHS Pruning Group 9 covers evergreen shrubs that flower during summer or autumn on growth produced either during the previous year or the current growing season.

These plants generally require relatively little routine pruning. The objective is to maintain a healthy, balanced framework while preserving the shrub’s natural form.

The basic Group 9 principle is:

Prune lightly during mid- to late spring, removing damaged and unwanted growth while retaining the plant’s natural structure.

Which Plants Belong to RHS Pruning Group 9?

The principal Group 9 examples include:

  • Eucryphia

  • Escallonia

  • Fatsia japonica

  • Hebe, with many species now classified as Veronica

  • Salvia rosmarinus, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis – rosemary

These plants retain their foliage throughout the year and provide permanent structure within the garden.

Some flower on growth formed during the previous season, while others produce flowers on shoots made during the current year. However, they share a general requirement for relatively light, selective pruning.

Not every species or cultivar within these genera will have identical requirements. Always identify the complete plant before carrying out substantial pruning.

When Should Group 9 Shrubs Be Pruned?

The main pruning period is mid- to late spring, after the risk of severe frost has reduced but before vigorous new growth is fully underway.

In North West England, this commonly means April or May, although the actual weather and condition of the plant should guide the timing.

Waiting until spring allows you to:

  • Identify winter-damaged growth

  • Avoid exposing fresh cuts to severe frost

  • Retain protective evergreen foliage during winter

  • See where healthy buds are developing

  • Encourage replacement growth as temperatures rise

  • Preserve the shrub’s winter structure

Dead, damaged or diseased growth can normally be removed whenever necessary, but the main structural pruning should be reserved for suitable spring conditions.

How to Prune RHS Group 9 Shrubs

Begin by examining the whole plant rather than immediately cutting its outer surface.

Remove Dead and Damaged Growth

Remove branches that are:

  • Dead

  • Broken

  • Frost damaged

  • Diseased

  • Weak or dying

Cut back to healthy wood or remove the complete branch at its point of origin.

Spring is particularly useful for this work because living and dead growth become easier to distinguish as healthy buds begin to develop.

Remove Crossing and Congested Branches

Remove stems that cross, rub together or grow through the centre of the plant.

Selective thinning can improve light penetration and air movement without destroying the shrub’s natural framework.

Where two branches compete for the same space, retain the stronger and better-positioned one.

Shorten Unwanted Growth

Overlong or badly positioned shoots can be shortened to a healthy bud or suitable side branch.

Avoid cutting every branch to the same length unless the plant is deliberately being maintained as a formal hedge.

Selective cuts produce a more natural result and avoid creating a dense outer shell of growth.

Avoid Unnecessary Hard Pruning

Where the plant remains healthy, attractive and appropriately sized, little further pruning may be required.

Many Group 9 shrubs are best left largely alone rather than being pruned simply because spring has arrived.

How to Prune Escallonia

Escallonia is commonly grown as a free-standing evergreen shrub or informal flowering hedge.

During spring:

  • Remove frost-damaged and dead shoots.

  • Cut back to healthy growth.

  • Remove crossing or congested branches.

  • Shorten excessively long shoots.

  • Retain a balanced evergreen framework.

Escallonia can suffer foliage and stem damage during cold or exposed winters. Wait until spring growth begins before deciding how much material has died.

Established plants can tolerate more substantial renovation, but removing too much at once may temporarily reduce flowering and leave an unattractive framework.

Gradual renovation over two or three seasons is generally preferable where an old Escallonia has become badly overgrown.

Browse our selection of hedging plants for evergreen screening options supplied and professionally planted across North West England.

How to Prune Hebe

Many Hebes require little pruning beyond removing damaged growth and lightly shaping the plant.

During spring:

  • Remove shoots damaged by frost.

  • Cut back dead stems to healthy growth.

  • Lightly shorten untidy shoots.

  • Remove crossing or badly positioned growth.

  • Avoid cutting deeply into completely bare old wood.

Older Hebes may not regenerate reliably from severe cuts into leafless stems. Regular light attention is therefore safer than allowing the plant to become overgrown and then attempting drastic renovation.

Some Hebes can become loose or open with age. Where healthy shoots remain lower down, individual branches can be shortened selectively.

How to Prune Fatsia japonica

Fatsia generally develops an attractive architectural framework without regular pruning.

Where attention is required:

  • Remove yellowing or badly damaged leaves.

  • Remove frost-damaged stems.

  • Cut unwanted stems back to their point of origin.

  • Remove weak or congested growth.

  • Shorten individual stems where size control is necessary.

Avoid shearing the entire plant. Fatsia’s ornamental value comes from its bold foliage and natural branching structure.

An overgrown plant can tolerate firmer pruning, but substantial reduction may be better spread across more than one season.

How to Prune Eucryphia

Eucryphia normally requires little routine pruning.

Remove:

  • Dead or damaged branches

  • Crossing stems

  • Weak growth

  • Shoots spoiling the natural shape

  • Branches causing access or safety problems

Substantial pruning should be approached cautiously because the response can vary according to the species, size and growing conditions.

Where possible, retain the plant’s natural framework and avoid unnecessary hard cutting.

How to Prune Rosemary

Rosemary is now botanically classified as Salvia rosmarinus.

Regular light trimming helps maintain a compact, bushy plant and reduces the development of long, bare woody stems.

When pruning:

  • Remove dead and winter-damaged growth.

  • Lightly shorten healthy leafy stems.

  • Retain green foliage below each cut.

  • Avoid cutting deeply into completely bare old wood.

  • Do not remove excessive growth in one session.

Where rosemary is flowering during spring, wait until the principal flowering display has finished before completing its main trim.

Old rosemary plants may fail to regenerate from severe pruning into leafless stems. Replacement can sometimes be more successful than drastic renovation.

Renovating an Overgrown Group 9 Shrub

Not every evergreen shrub responds reliably to hard renovation.

Where a shrub has become excessively large or woody, a staged approach is safer:

  1. Remove dead and damaged growth first.

  2. Remove a proportion of the oldest or worst-positioned stems.

  3. Shorten selected branches to healthy side growth.

  4. Allow the plant to recover.

  5. Complete further reduction during subsequent seasons.

This approach retains foliage while allowing you to assess the plant’s response.

Weak, diseased or badly declining specimens may be better replaced, particularly where the plant has outgrown its position permanently.

Group 9 Compared With Group 8

RHS Pruning Group 8 includes early-flowering evergreens such as Camellia, Choisya, Mahonia and Viburnum tinus.

These are generally pruned after flowering so their developing buds are not removed beforehand.

Group 9 contains later-flowering evergreens that generally receive light attention during mid- to late spring.

Group 9 Compared With Group 10

RHS Pruning Group 10 includes smaller evergreen shrubs such as lavender, heather, thyme and santolina.

These plants normally require more regular trimming to prevent them becoming woody and straggly.

Group 9 plants are usually larger shrubs that require only selective pruning to maintain their framework and remove unwanted growth.

Looking After Evergreen Shrubs Following Pruning

After pruning:

  • Remove all cut material.

  • Apply an appropriate general-purpose feed where required.

  • Mulch over moist, weed-free soil.

  • Keep mulch away from direct contact with stems.

  • Water during prolonged dry weather.

  • Protect tender new shoots from unexpected late frost.

  • Monitor the plant for signs of stress or disease.

Recently installed plants should normally be allowed to establish before unnecessary pruning. See our guide to looking after newly planted trees and hedging for general establishment advice.

Check for Nesting Birds

Evergreen shrubs and hedges provide valuable nesting habitat.

Before pruning, inspect the plant carefully for active nests. If a nest is being built or remains in use, postpone the work until it is no longer active.

Common Group 9 Pruning Mistakes

Pruning Heavily During Autumn

Autumn pruning can encourage tender growth and expose fresh cuts to winter weather.

Cutting Every Branch to the Same Height

This produces an artificial outline and a dense outer layer of growth rather than maintaining the shrub’s natural structure.

Cutting Into Bare Old Wood

Plants such as Hebe and rosemary may not regenerate reliably from old leafless stems.

Pruning When No Work Is Required

A healthy, well-shaped Group 9 plant may need only the removal of occasional damaged or unwanted shoots.

Treating Every Evergreen Shrub the Same

Evergreens are divided between several pruning groups according to their flowering time and growth habit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should Group 9 shrubs be pruned every year?

Not necessarily. Inspect the plant annually, but prune only where dead, damaged, congested or unwanted growth needs removing.

When should I prune Escallonia?

Lightly prune during mid- to late spring, particularly where winter damage needs removing. More substantial renovation should be undertaken cautiously.

Can an old Hebe be cut back hard?

Hard pruning into bare old wood is risky because some Hebes will not regenerate. Gradual reduction to healthy leafy growth is safer.

Can I prune Fatsia to reduce its size?

Yes. Remove selected stems at their point of origin or shorten individual branches. Avoid shearing the whole plant into a uniform shape.

Is rosemary in Group 9 or Group 10?

The RHS lists rosemary among its Group 9 examples. Its practical treatment shares an important Group 10 principle: retain healthy foliage and avoid cutting deeply into bare old wood.

The Simple Rule for RHS Pruning Group 9

The easiest way to remember Group 9 is:

Late-flowering evergreen shrubs need light spring pruning, not routine hard cutting.

For related advice, read our guides to RHS Pruning Group 8, RHS Pruning Group 10 and RHS Pruning Group 6.