RHS Pruning Group 3: Shrubs That Shoot From the Base

RHS Pruning Group 3 covers deciduous shrubs that flower on growth produced during the previous year and regularly produce vigorous new stems from ground level or low down within the plant.

Unlike shrubs that retain a permanent framework of older branches, Group 3 plants continually renew themselves from the base.

The basic Group 3 principle is:

Allow the shrub to flower, then remove flowered growth and some of the oldest stems to make room for vigorous new shoots.

Which Plants Belong to RHS Pruning Group 3?

The principal examples are:

  • Kerria japonica

  • Kerria japonica ‘Pleniflora’

  • Neillia species and cultivars

These shrubs produce substantial new growth from ground level or from the lower part of the plant.

Their flowers are carried on one-year-old wood, while older stems gradually become less productive. Regularly removing some of the oldest growth encourages the young stems required for future flowers.

Not every shrub that produces shoots from its base belongs to Group 3. Confirm the plant’s identity and flowering habit before applying this pruning method.

When Should Group 3 Shrubs Be Pruned?

Group 3 shrubs should normally be pruned immediately after flowering.

For Kerria japonica, this usually means pruning during spring once its main display of yellow flowers has finished.

The precise timing will depend on:

  • The particular species or cultivar

  • Local weather conditions

  • The garden’s aspect

  • When flowering finishes

  • Whether the shrub produces a second, lighter display

Use the end of the principal flowering period as your guide rather than relying entirely on a fixed date.

Pruning immediately after flowering allows you to enjoy the current display and gives the plant the remainder of spring and summer to develop strong new stems. These mature during the growing season and carry flowers the following year.

Avoid carrying out the principal pruning during autumn or winter because this would remove much of the growth carrying the developing flower buds.

Dead, damaged or diseased stems can normally be removed whenever they are discovered.

How to Prune RHS Group 3 Shrubs

Begin by inspecting the complete shrub after flowering. Identify the vigorous young stems before removing older growth.

Remove Dead, Damaged and Diseased Stems

Remove dead, broken or diseased stems first.

Follow each affected stem down to healthy growth or its point of origin and make a clean cut.

Cleaning your tools before moving between plants can help reduce the risk of transferring disease.

Cut Back Flowered Shoots

Remove flowered shoots by cutting them back to vigorous young sideshoots lower down the stem.

This redirects the plant’s energy into healthy replacement growth while retaining a balanced framework.

Where a complete flowered stem has become old, weak or unproductive, it can be removed at ground level.

Remove One in Three of the Oldest Stems

On an established, healthy Group 3 shrub, approximately one-third of the oldest stems can be removed completely each year.

Cut these stems close to ground level without damaging the surrounding young growth.

Choose stems that are:

  • Old and heavily woody

  • Producing relatively few flowers

  • Weak or damaged

  • Crossing through the centre

  • Congesting vigorous new shoots

  • Growing in an unsuitable direction

Removing older stems creates space and light for younger shoots to develop.

Do not automatically remove one-third of every plant. Young, recently planted, weak or slow-growing shrubs may require much less pruning.

Retain Strong Young Growth

Young stems produced from the base are responsible for future flowering.

Retain the strongest, best-positioned shoots while removing weak, spindly or overcrowded growth.

The finished plant should contain a balanced mixture of healthy young stems rather than a dense collection of ageing wood.

How to Prune Kerria japonica

Kerria japonica produces bright yellow spring flowers on slender green stems.

After flowering:

  1. Remove dead, damaged or diseased stems.

  2. Cut flowered shoots back to vigorous young sideshoots.

  3. Remove approximately one-third of the oldest stems at ground level.

  4. Retain strong new stems emerging from the base.

  5. Thin weak or badly positioned shoots where the plant is congested.

The double-flowered Kerria japonica ‘Pleniflora’ can be treated in the same general way.

Kerria can spread through suckering shoots. Remove unwanted growth where it extends beyond the intended area, but retain sufficient healthy young stems to renew the plant.

How to Prune Neillia

Neillia also flowers on growth produced during the previous year and generates replacement stems from low down within the plant.

After flowering:

  • Remove damaged and diseased growth.

  • Cut flowered shoots back to vigorous young stems.

  • Remove some of the oldest stems at ground level.

  • Thin congested growth.

  • Retain healthy basal shoots for future flowering.

Regular selective renewal produces a healthier and more attractive shrub than repeatedly clipping only the outside.

Group 3 Compared With Group 2

RHS Pruning Group 2 contains early-flowering shrubs such as Forsythia, Philadelphus and Weigela.

Group 2 plants produce strong young shoots within an established framework. Their flowered growth is shortened to healthy young shoots, with a smaller proportion of ageing stems removed periodically.

Group 3 shrubs produce larger amounts of replacement growth from ground level. Approximately one-third of the oldest stems can therefore be removed from the base each year on healthy, established plants.

Group 3 Compared With Group 5

Group 3 should not be confused with RHS Pruning Group 5.

Group 3 shrubs undergo selective renewal. Some older stems are removed, but healthy younger growth is retained.

Established Group 5 shrubs tolerate much harder treatment, with virtually all flowered stems cut back near the base after flowering.

Applying Group 5 treatment to the wrong shrub could remove far more growth than necessary.

Tools for Pruning Group 3 Shrubs

Suitable tools include:

  • Secateurs for young and slender stems

  • Loppers for thicker growth

  • A pruning saw for mature woody stems

  • Protective gloves and eye protection

Use clean, sharp tools and make clean cuts close to the stem’s point of origin. Avoid leaving unnecessarily long stubs.

Take care not to damage vigorous new shoots when removing older stems from the centre of the plant.

Looking After the Shrub Following Pruning

Group 3 pruning stimulates new growth, so appropriate aftercare will help the shrub recover.

After pruning:

  • Remove cut material from around the plant.

  • Water thoroughly if the soil is dry.

  • Remove competing weeds.

  • Apply an appropriate general-purpose feed where required.

  • Add organic mulch over moist soil.

  • Keep mulch away from direct contact with the stems.

  • Monitor new shoots for pests, disease and drought stress.

Recently planted shrubs should be treated more cautiously while their roots establish. See our guide to looking after newly planted trees and hedging for general watering and establishment advice.

Common Group 3 Pruning Mistakes

Pruning Before Flowering

Autumn or winter pruning removes stems carrying the following spring’s flower buds.

Removing All the Stems

Group 3 requires selective renewal, not the complete hard pruning used for Group 5.

Retaining Too Much Old Wood

Failing to remove ageing stems can leave the shrub congested, less vigorous and increasingly unproductive.

Removing the Young Basal Shoots

The new stems emerging from the base are responsible for future flowering and should generally be retained.

Clipping Only the Outside

Repeatedly trimming the outer surface creates dense, twiggy growth while older stems continue to congest the centre.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can Kerria be cut back to the ground?

A healthy Kerria may recover from severe renovation, but complete cutting back is not the normal annual Group 3 method. Routine pruning involves removing flowered growth and approximately one-third of the oldest stems.

Should Kerria be pruned every year?

Established Kerria benefits from annual inspection and selective renewal after flowering. Young or recently planted specimens may require much less intervention.

Which Kerria stems should I remove?

Remove dead, damaged, weak and congested stems first, followed by some of the oldest and least productive growth. Retain strong young green stems.

Can I prune Kerria during winter?

Dead or damaged growth can be removed, but the main pruning should wait until after flowering. Winter pruning will reduce the spring display.

Is Group 3 the same as Clematis Group 3?

No. The RHS woody-plant pruning groups and Clematis pruning groups are separate systems. This page concerns shrubs such as Kerria and Neillia, not late-flowering Clematis.

The Simple Rule for RHS Pruning Group 3

The easiest way to remember Group 3 is:

Let it flower, remove the flowered growth and take one in three of the oldest stems back to ground level.

For other pruning methods, read our guides to RHS Pruning Group 1, RHS Pruning Group 2 and RHS Pruning Group 5.